Best practise for Pool copings in Bundaberg Pools

Ever noticed how the pavers of a pool are loose, drummy…not fixed to the pool shell. noticed the grout is pitted and eaten away. Often there are simple methods to use to solve these issues by following closely the Best Practise when actually doing the work.

When Building a concrete pool its very important not to rush the construction especially when fixing, tiles, pavers of coping to the pool. You must wait for the moisture to dry out of the freshly poured concrete base to prevent the adhesives by letting go because there is more moisture to come out of the shell.  In most situations a minimum of 7 days is required subject to soil moisture and weather conditions.

The are many suitable adhesives available on the market, we use Kemcrete products which are great, but there are many on the market, but they must be suitable specifically for use in Swimming pools.. written in the spec sheet, not just by the sales guy who wont help you when it fails… this is Critical and saves many tears down the track.

Next be certain there is no powdery release agent on the back of the pavers to prevent the adhesive bonding to the surface… use a wire brush or cup grinder to removed any unwanted materials.

Now you must set out the pavers on a freeform pool so when cutting  the pavers the joints overlap and from the intersecting points allow 10mm for the joints then you will have a perfect mitre… remember to set out ahead so you have a consistent flow and avoiding  uneven mitres which look very ordinary.

Butter the back of the paver and trim with a flat trowel, then use a 10mm notched trowel on the bed. This allows the ability to adjust the height when pavers vary in thickness , which they will !  Remember to lat a creed over the top to achieve a consistent surface and check for excess glue on the under edge is cleaned of the pavers, as its lots harder when its dry.

Start grouting … wash down the pavers and flush out the joints to give a far better bond. Avoid this is hot conditions as it will such the moisture out of the grunt and prevent the bond required. Where this is not possible keep a bucket and sponge to keep the areas moist ahead of your work. Use a sharp sandy mix definitely NOT brickies loam…some fines is good to provide a better finish. The mix should stand up without being dry…then apply to the joints with a sponge to be certain the front and back edges are full and that grout is also full top to bottom in the joint.. to wet and it will run all over the pace, too dry and it wont bind.. you will get it. work 2-3m ahead until you see the grout crusting, then use a dry sponge in a circular motion to take of the excess. After this garb a 20 litre bucket of water and a large clean sponge, remove all water until just moist then clean down the pavers in circular motion… be sure to focus on front and back edges for the best finish.

Expansion joints must be placed on any pressure points in the centre of any external or internal curves on either side of any corner and every 3 metres on a straight line. Fill the base of the joint with backing rod then tape either sides before applying Sikaflex or similar approved product…oveer spray with detergent before cleaning of the tap and any excess.

Follow these procedures carefully and you will achieve a high quality finish you will be proud of for many years.

Need any further advise call us at Lifestyle Solutions Centre 78 Mt Perry Road, Nth Bundaberg of check the website  http://www.earnit.com.au

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